A 110-volt window air conditioner with heat is the right pick for a single room or zone where you want both summer cooling and shoulder-season heating from one unit on one outlet. The category is narrower than straight window AC because adding a heating coil adds cost and complexity, and the heating output is electric-resistance limited rather than heat-pump efficient. After working through 12 heat-cool window units against cooling BTU accuracy, heating capacity, noise, and install ease, these five made the lineup for 2026.
| Unit | Cooling BTU | Heating BTU | Coverage | Noise |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LG LW8017ERSM | 8,000 | 3,850 | 340 sq ft | 52 dBA |
| Frigidaire FFRH0822R1 | 8,000 | 4,000 | 350 sq ft | 54 dBA |
| Keystone KSTHW10A | 10,000 | 10,600 | 450 sq ft | 56 dBA |
| GE AHW08LZ | 8,000 | 3,500 | 350 sq ft | 51 dBA |
| Friedrich Chill Premier CCW08C10 | 8,000 | 3,500 | 350 sq ft | 50 dBA |
LG LW8017ERSM - Best Overall
The LG LW8017ERSM is the heat-cool window unit that gets the basics right at a fair price. The 8,000 BTU cooling output covers a 340-square-foot room (a typical bedroom or small living room) in summer, and the 3,850 BTU electric heating output covers the same room in shoulder-season cool weather. The smart-thermostat connectivity allows scheduling and remote control through the LG ThinQ app, which is genuinely useful for warming up a bedroom before bedtime.
The build quality is consistent with LG’s larger appliance line. The unit installs in a standard double-hung window from 23 to 36 inches wide, the side panels seal properly, and the outdoor exhaust is reasonably weatherproof. Noise level at 52 dBA on the low setting is quiet enough for bedroom use, though all window units are louder on high.
Trade-off: heating output is modest. At 3,850 BTU, this is adequate for shoulder-season use in moderate climates but not for deep winter in cold regions. Plan to supplement with central heat below 40 degrees outdoor.
Frigidaire FFRH0822R1 - Best Build
The Frigidaire FFRH0822R1 is the durable choice for someone replacing a window unit that has been in service for years and wants the next one to last. The Frigidaire window AC line has a reputation for long service life, and the heating coil construction is the more robust electric-element design. The 4,000 BTU heating output is slightly higher than the LG, which makes a real difference in 35 to 40 degree weather.
Mechanical controls (with a digital display for set temperature) are the standard interface. No app connectivity, which some users see as a feature rather than a limitation. The unit is a few pounds heavier than the LG, which contributes to the more solid feel.
Trade-off: no smart connectivity. If app control or voice control matters, look at the LG. For a unit you set and forget, this is the right pick.
Keystone KSTHW10A - Best for Larger Rooms
The Keystone KSTHW10A is the upper end of 110V capability with 10,000 BTU cooling and a meaningful 10,600 BTU heating output. The increased heating capacity comes from a higher-wattage element that maxes out the 110V 15-amp circuit, which means more real warmth in cool weather. For a 450-square-foot space (a master bedroom, a small studio, a larger office), the larger capacity matters.
The trade-off in size is weight (closer to 80 pounds) and a slightly louder operation than the smaller units. The unit installs in standard double-hung windows from 27 to 40 inches wide, which is most modern windows but not all older homes.
Trade-off: nearly maxes out a 15-amp circuit when heating. Do not share the circuit with other appliances. Some older homes will trip breakers under continuous heating load.
GE AHW08LZ - Best Quiet
The GE AHW08LZ is the quietest unit in this lineup at 51 dBA on low cool. For a bedroom that needs both summer cooling and occasional shoulder-season heat, the noise floor is the most important spec. GE engineers the AHW08LZ compressor mounting and fan blade to reduce vibration transmission to the window frame, which is where most window-AC noise actually comes from.
The 8,000 BTU cooling output is appropriate for a 350-square-foot bedroom. The 3,500 BTU heating output is at the lower end of this category, which is fine for moderate climates and shoulder-season use but not for cold-region winter.
Trade-off: lower heating capacity than competitors. For warmer climates this is fine. For cold-region use, step up to the Keystone or Frigidaire.
Friedrich Chill Premier CCW08C10 - Best Premium
The Friedrich Chill Premier is the premium window-unit brand, and the heat-cool variant continues that tradition with quieter operation (50 dBA), better-finished controls, and a slightly more refined exterior appearance than competitors. The 8,000 BTU cooling and 3,500 BTU heating outputs are roughly equivalent to the GE.
The reason to pay the premium is build quality and longevity. Friedrich units in apartments and small offices routinely run 10 to 15 years. The competitors run 7 to 10 years in similar use. The Friedrich also has the cleanest installation aesthetics if the window faces a public area.
Trade-off: price. Roughly 30 percent higher than the LG for similar specs. The premium is real for long-term use but hard to justify for a rental or short-term install.
How to choose a 110V window AC with heat
Match the BTU to the room size. 8,000 BTU covers up to 350 square feet. 10,000 BTU covers up to 450 square feet. Smaller units exist at 5,000 BTU for rooms under 200 square feet. Oversized units cool fast but cycle on and off too frequently, which causes humidity to stay high.
Decide on climate realism. Heat-cool window units are excellent for shoulder seasons and mild winter climates. They struggle in deep cold. If you live in a region with sustained sub-freezing winter, the heat function is a bonus rather than a primary heat source.
Confirm the outlet capacity. A 15-amp dedicated circuit is the minimum. Sharing the circuit with other heat-generating appliances (microwaves, space heaters, hair dryers) will trip the breaker. If the room has only a shared circuit, run a dedicated line first.
Check the window dimensions. Most 8,000 BTU units fit double-hung windows 23 to 36 inches wide and 13 to 14 inches tall in sash height. Casement windows need a different product entirely. Measure before you order.
Plan for proper drainage and sealing. Window AC units pull moisture out of the room during cooling, which drains either out the back of the unit or into a small reservoir. The unit must tilt slightly outward (about 1/4 inch over its depth) so the condensate runs out rather than pooling inside. Seal the side panels and the gap above the unit with weatherstripping foam to prevent the cooled air from leaking back outside in summer and to keep the heated air from escaping in winter. A poorly sealed install can drop the effective cooling and heating output by 20 to 30 percent.
Consider winter storage if you only use cooling. Window units that only run for summer cooling benefit from removal and indoor storage during winter. Leaving the unit in the window through cold weather exposes the coils to freeze-thaw cycles and lets the seal degrade. For heat-cool units running year-round, this is not a concern, but a unit installed for summer-only use will last several years longer if it spends the winter in the garage or closet.
See our AC types window portable mini-split breakdown for the category-level decision and our tankless vs tank water heater guide for related 110V appliance decisions. The methodology page covers our HVAC evaluation framework.
Frequently asked questions
How does a window AC with heat actually heat a room?+
Two methods, depending on the model. Electric resistance heating uses a heating element inside the unit, similar to a space heater, and works in any outdoor temperature down to deep cold. Heat-pump heating reverses the refrigeration cycle to extract heat from outdoor air and pump it inside, which is two to three times more energy-efficient but only works down to roughly 40 degrees outdoor temperature. Most 110V units use electric resistance heating because heat pumps require more sophisticated controls and tend to be 220V.
Is a window AC with heat as good as a furnace?+
For a single room or zone, yes. For whole-house heating, no. A 5,000 to 12,000 BTU window unit can keep a 150 to 500 square foot room comfortable in 40 to 60 degree outdoor temperatures. It is not designed to heat a whole house, and the heating capacity drops in extremely cold weather. The right use case is shoulder seasons (October to November, March to April) when running a central furnace for one cool room is wasteful, or a single bedroom or office in mild winter climates.
Will a window AC with heat keep me warm in winter?+
Depends on climate and outdoor temperature. In moderate climates (Southern California, Southeast U.S., coastal Pacific Northwest), a 110V window AC with heat handles winter heating for a single room down to roughly 40 degrees outdoor temperature without strain. In cold climates (Northeast U.S., Midwest, Mountain West) with sustained sub-freezing weather, electric resistance heat works but draws significant power, and the room may not reach 70 degrees if heat loss exceeds the unit's output. Heat-pump models drop in efficiency or stop working entirely below 40 degrees outdoor.
How much does it cost to run a window AC with heat?+
Cooling mode on a 110V unit draws roughly 500 to 1,500 watts depending on size and load, which is 6 to 18 cents per hour at average U.S. electricity rates. Electric heating mode draws closer to the unit's maximum of 1,500 watts continuously when heating, which is 15 to 18 cents per hour. Running heat 8 hours a day for a month is roughly $40 to $50 in electricity. Compare that to running a central furnace for one room (which uses far more energy heating the whole house's air) and the window unit can be cheaper for single-zone use.
Can I install a heat-cool window unit myself?+
Yes, in most cases. The unit weighs 50 to 90 pounds depending on size, which is a two-person lift for safety, and the installation is a standard window-AC procedure: mount the support brackets if needed, slide the unit into the window frame, lower the sash, install the side panels, plug it in. Allow about an hour for first install. Use a level to confirm the unit tilts slightly outward (about 1/4 inch over the depth) for proper drainage. The unit plugs into a standard 15-amp 110V outlet.
